Brasserie and Bar at Malmaison - Oxford

The Malmaison group of hotels has established throughout Britain a collection of centres of excellence where nothing but the best will do. As a concept alone this is exciting, but the reality is brilliant, so that at last there is a hotel group where uniformity of standards is of the same high calibre.

If you draw up outside Malmaison Oxford and feel a certain sense of familiarity it could just be because you have stayed as an involuntary guest of Her Majesty in an earlier life. Welcome to a transformed - greatly transformed - Oxford Goal.

And lest you are worrying already about getting out, rest assured the rooms are all that one would expect from a hotel that has genuine regard for its guests and is concerned with every aspect of their wellbeing; after all you are given the key.

Cells, coolers and dwellings for the governor and custodians alike have all been thrown into the designer's pot, emerging in varying manifestations, some little changed for those who fancy a spot of chastisement, others barely recognisable in the new found glory.

Amidst elegant surroundings, with crisp linen, spotless gleaming glassware and shining cutlery an essentially brasserie menu is offered. Lovers of seafood will be delighted to note at once that their particular needs are well heeded, starting with a delightful mussel and saffron chowder or a classic shrimp cocktail. For those looking for the traditional lift in life oysters are served with shallot vinegar, Tabasco or natural.

That very brasserie dish, eggs benedict; or should we now say that with a capital B in deference to the new incumbent at the Vatican, has staged a comeback recently, and can be taken here as a starter or main course. French onion soup seldom fails to please, and a game terrine is served with homemade pickles and sour dough.

An inspired choice is the seared Scottish scallops with black pudding and cauliflower puree, with braised lamb shoulder shepherd's pie for those seeking by this time a slightly more carnivoristic approach. Which leads us neatly to the, wait for it, Malburger, a 225 gram burger made from ground beef tucked into a floured bap to join bacon and gruyere, served with homemade relish and some fries.

Over the years the number of outriders surrounding a good honest steak have grown to unacceptable dimensions. At Malmaison the thought and care is centred on the dry-aged on the bone Scottish rump and that's it - except for the chips. If you want all the rest go for the side dishes, but steak and chips on its own takes some beating. Vegetarians are well looked after - the sautéed wild mushroom, poached egg polenta sounded appealing, and there is an excellent House salad.

Heading the puddings is the House crème brûlée, a triumph of timing and co-ordination, supported by other choices amongst which expect to find warm treacle tart, chocolate fondant white chocolate ice cream or a splendid apple and blackberry crumble with custard. Their homemade ice creams and sorbets are dreamy.

Their wine list is a symphony of its kind, clearly compiled by an enthusiast who knows his wines well enough not to take refuge in a world of hyperbole when describing them.

Space permits only the briefest of mentions regarding the Sunday brunch - all you expect and hope that sort of event will turn out to be - and then some. The big mal breakfast, corned beef hash, omelette Arnold Bennett, strawberry and champagne jelly, and the renowned mal cheese trolley. And yes, they do porridge for breakfast proper.

Their Website is a wealth of information that will, I predict, only serve to increase your resolve to make Malmaison your next stop in Oxford - voluntarily.