Brasserie and Bar at Malmaison - Oxford

The Malmaison group of hotels has established throughout Britain a collection of centres of excellence where nothing but the best will do. As a concept alone this is exciting, but the reality is brilliant, so that at last there is a hotel group where uniformity of standards is of the same high calibre.

If you draw up outside Malmaison Oxford and feel a certain sense of familiarity it could just be because you have stayed as an involuntary guest of Her Majesty in an earlier life. Welcome to a transformed - greatly transformed - Oxford Goal.

And lest you are worrying already about getting out, rest assured the ninety-four rooms and suites are all that one would expect from a hotel that has genuine regard for its guests and is concerned with every aspect of their wellbeing; after all you are given the key. Cells, coolers and dwellings for the governor and custodians alike have all been thrown into the designer's pot, emerging in varying manifestations, some little changed for those who fancy a spot of chastisement, others barely recognisable in the new found glory.

Amidst elegant surroundings, with spotless gleaming glassware and shining cutlery, an essentially brasserie menu is offered. Lovers of seafood will be delighted to note at once that their particular needs are well heeded, starting with steamed mussels, white wine cream and garlic, or king crab Waldorf salad, walnuts, apple and celery.

Other starters that seldom fail to please include jabugo iberico ham 'gran reserve', beautifully grilled warm valley smokehouse smoked salmon with fennel and horseradish; slow-cooked ballotine of goose liver with quince and apple chutney and toasted sourdough, and steak tartar with classic condiments.

An inspired choice is the grilled fillet of stone sea bass with wild mushrooms, potato and sorrell, with slow-cooked venison osso bucco, roasted garlic and thyme mash for those seeking by this time a slightly more carnivoristic approach. Which leads us neatly to the, wait for it, Mal burger, a 250 gram burger made from ground beef tucked into a floured bap to join bacon and gruyere, served with homemade relish and some fries.

Over the years the number of outriders surrounding a good honest steak have grown to unacceptable dimensions. At Malmaison the thought and care is centred on the dry-aged on the bone Scottish rump and that's it - except for the chips. If you want all the rest go for the side dishes, but steak and chips on its own takes some beating. Vegetarians are well looked after - the glazed herbed pancakes, wild mushrooms, and roasted red onions is appealing, and there is an excellent roasted pumpkin soufflé with sweet curry sauce and chutney.

Heading the puddings is the chocolate and Guinness cake with sweet cream cheese, supported by other choices amongst which expect to find brandied pear and almond galette, or a splendid sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and chantilly. Their homemade ice creams and sorbets are dreamy.

The wine list is a symphony of its kind, clearly compiled by an enthusiast who knows his wines well enough not to take refuge in a world of hyperbole when describing them. Their Website is a wealth of information that will, I predict, only serve to increase your resolve to make Malmaison your next stop in Oxford - voluntarily. It is worth noting that you can also make reservations Online on their Website.