Brasserie Gerard - Oxford

The French have always believed in all day dining - it is after all one of the things they do best, so where better than Gérard than to get down to it seriously. From delicious Moroccan tagines to a good steak frites, you'll be hard pushed to do better. Meet friends and colleagues, soak up some Dutch Courage or relaxing syrup at the Zinc Bar and feel the adrenaline flow as the sheer freedom of it all takes over your next few hours.

Life starts with breakfast at Gerard, and not for nothing is the traditional full English referred to as Le Petit Déjeuner Anglais, though surprisingly no black pudding, which the French are so good at, is listed amongst the combatants. What the menu does indicate is the French can hold their own when it comes to a good start to the day.

However, the piece de résistance is without shadow of doubt the à la carte where some fourteen starters and light dishes invite your scrutiny, leading with that old French favourite, the onion soup glazed with Gruyère cheese croutons, or a salade Niçoise, tuna, free range egg, Charlotte new potatoes, plum tomatoes, green beans, red onions, olives and anchovies.

Wagyu steaks are amongst the best in the world - only strong Scottish connections prevent me from invoking an unqualified "the best". The tender rump steak at 8oz is by no means cheap but you will be aware that you have met up with perfection. It seems faintly irreverent to fashion some of this great product into a burger, and at just shy of £16 it must be amongst the most expensive in the world.

Grilled chicken, free range of course, comes with a choice of six sauces and amongst the fish dishes red mullet chermoula, and a seafood casserole à la Catalane stand out. Southern French style pizzas, stoned baked with sliced tomatoes make an ideal starter course for two to share. Speciality dishes include tagines made with vegetables, chicken, or lamb served with cous cous, but for those like me who can't stand the stuff there is saffron rice. The day we bought a tagine transformed our lives.

A menu prix fix offers exceptional value for two or three courses with assiette gourmande, a friture of squid and whitebait, a mound of mussels in white wine and parsley with the obligatory pommes frites, perhaps followed by the lemon tart, almost the hallmark of the French dessert.

Whilst salads have always been a way of life, concern with bodyweight and general health has mean an increased demand, with special marks being reserved for the Norwegian variety, 'hot' smoked salmon, juicy prawns, asparagus tips, chopped dill and fresh creamed goat's cheese. Amongst side dishes keep an eye open for pastille, thin baked Moroccan pastry leaves stuffed with mildly spiced shredded vegetables and served with minted yoghurt - delicious! And another little treat is the basket of freshly baked baguettes with anchovy and Normandy butter.

Their Website contains masses of information for which there is not enough room here, but is only a click away.