Browns Bar & Brasserie - Bath

The first Browns opened at Brighton in 1973 with one simple guiding belief, that classic food, well delivered in a stylish environment would be a recipe for success. The only thing that has changed since then is the number of Browns, now running at fourteen, of which six are in London, all prospering with the same theme.

Some of their buildings are particularly legendary in style, sometimes listed and always interesting. The premises at Bath, immediately opposite the Abbey are, almost inevitably, Georgian, and once housed a Police Station and a Magistrate's Court.

The main menu, available throughout the day, starts with appetisers, designed for sharing, with antipasti of Italian meat, vegetarian or seafood. Try the flatbreads with a range of interesting toppings.

In amongst the thirteen starters expect to find ham hock terrine with piccalilli and toasted ciabatta. The fish choices include whole baked sea bream with lemon and ginger served with wilted spinach and new potatoes.

The same theme of comfortable food, well-cooked and presented, continues throughout the mains course with Browns's steak, mushroom and Guinness pie well to the fore, alongside beef and olive ragù in a tomato sauce tossed with pennette rigate.

The chalkboard carries a list of the day's specials, but every day except Sunday is Browns's afternoon tea day, served from 2 - 5.30pm; and on Sundays it offers a choice of three roasts. It would be hard to find a dessert much more English than raspberry and chocolate brownie, or sticky toffee pudding with a rich toffee sauce and clotted cream, which also has good appeal.

By the way their breakfast and brunch menu is just one of the best and they also do a very nifty pre-theatre supper, no matter whether you are going there or not.

The wine list is masterful and not over long, sometimes a great relief to those who find it difficulty to navigate their way through an interesting list. Many bottles are available by the glass and each group of wines is helpfully classified under headings such as white, red and rose with a reserve selection, house recommendations, New and Old World.

Browns at Bath are well able to deal with groups, and have special menus to look after their particular interests. Click on their excellent Website for further details and menu changes.