Browns Bar & Brasserie - Brighton

This was the first Browns and opened in 1973 with one simple guiding belief, that classic food, well delivered in a stylish environment would be a recipe for success. The only thing that has changed since then is the number of Browns, now running at fourteen, of which six are in London, all prospering with the same theme.

Some of their buildings are particularly legendary in style, sometimes listed and always interesting. Formerly a Building Society it is located in Duke Street, adjacent to the much-loved Lanes.

The main menu, available throughout the day, starts with appetisers, designed for sharing, with antipasti of Italian meat, vegetarian or seafood. Try the flatbreads with a range of interesting toppings.

In amongst the thirteen starters expect to find prawn cocktail served with brown bread and butter or crab and avocado salad. The fish and pasta choices include whole baked sea bream with lemon and ginger served with wilted spinach and new potatoes.

The same theme of comfortable food, well-cooked and presented, continues throughout the main course with Browns steak, mushroom and Guinness pie well to the fore, a dry cured smoked streaky bacon and Emmenthal cheese burger, rack of lamb and chicken schnitzel.

The chalkboard carries a list of the day's specials, but every day except Sunday is Browns afternoon tea day, served from 2 to 5.30pm. It would be harder to find a dessert much more English than apple pie and custard, and Pimms jelly with strawberry coulis, apple and fresh mint have a good appeal.

By the way their breakfast and brunch menu is just one of the best. They also do a very slick prix fixe menu with two courses for £12.95.

The wine list is masterful and not over long, sometimes a great relief to those who find it difficulty to navigate their way through an interesting list. Many bottles are available by the glass, very few cross the £20 mark. Helpfully each group of wines is classified under headings such as Old and New World, reserve selection and house recommendations.

Browns at Brighton are well able to deal with groups, and have special menus to look after their particular interests. Click on their excellent Website for further details and menu changes.