The first Browns opened at Brighton in 1973 with one simple guiding belief, that classic food, well delivered in a stylish environment, would be a recipe for success. The only thing that has changed since then is the number of Browns, now running at fourteen, of which six are in London, all prospering with the same theme.

Some of their buildings are particularly legendary in style, sometimes listed and always interesting. The premises at Leeds are located on the Headrow in the imposing setting of the 1930s banking hall of the former Leeds Permanent Building Society.

The main menu, available throughout the day, starts with appetisers, designed for sharing, with antipasti of Italian meat, vegetarian or seafood. Try also the flatbreads with a range of interesting toppings. In amongst the thirteen starters expect to come across smoked duck, crisp noodle and cashew nut salad with red peppers, tumeric cauliflower, spring onions and a sherry vinaigrette. The fish and salad choices include fish and chips tempura battered cod with minted mushy peas and tartar sauce and pan-fried butterflied tiger prawns tossed with linguine in a tomato, coriander and chorizo sauce.

The same theme of comfortable food, well-cooked and presented, continues throughout the mains course with roast chicken breast in sour dough bread with baby spinach, tomato and mayonnaise, served with seasoned chips, and steak frites 6oz prime sirloin, served with a lemon, parsley and peppercorn butter.

The chalkboard carries a list of the day's specials, but every day except Sunday is Browns's afternoon tea day, served from 2 to 5.30 pm. It would be harder to find a dessert much more English than apple pie and custard, and profiteroles with warm chocolate sauce has a good appeal.

By the way their breakfast and brunch menu is just one of the best and they also do a pretty nifty prix fixe menu from 4 to 6.30 pm and 9.30 to 10.30 pm regardless of where you are going.

The wine list is masterful and not over long, sometimes a great relief to those who find it difficult to navigate their way through a lengthy list. Many bottles are available by the glass. Helpfully each group of wines is classified under headings such as white, red and rosé with house recommendations, reserve selection and New and Old World wines under them.

Browns at Leeds are well able to deal with groups, and have special menus to look after their particular interests. Click on their excellent Website for further details and menu changes.