Browns Bar & Brasserie - Oxford

The first Browns opened in 1973 at Brighton, with one simple guiding belief, that classic food, well delivered in a stylish environment would be a recipe for success. The only thing that has changed since then is the number of Browns, now running at fourteen, of which six are in London, all prospering with the same theme.

Some of their buildings are particularly legendary in style, sometimes listed and always interesting. The second Browns to open was here at Oxford, in an old Morris garage, now an archetypal British brasserie.

The main menu, available throughout the day, starts with appetisers, designed for sharing, with antipasti of Italian meat, vegetarian or seafood. Flatbreads with a range of interesting toppings complete the range.

In amongst the ten starters expect to find Belgium endive, pancetta, blue cheese and toasted pine nut salad or crab and avocado salad. The fish and pasta choices include chargrilled swordfish, angel pasta, and salmon and spring onion fishcakes.

The same theme of comfortable food, well-cooked and presented, continues throughout the mains course with Browns's steak, mushroom and Guinness pie well to the fore, a smoked bacon and Emmenthal cheese burger with chips, lamb cutlets with a Greek salad and very zesty hot chicken salad.

The chalkboard carries a list of the day's specials, but every day except Sunday is Brownss afternoon tea day, served from 2 - 5pm; and on Sundays it offers a choice of two roasts. It would be harder to find a dessert much more English than apple pie and custard, and vanilla cheesecake with strawberry coulis has a good appeal.

By the way their breakfast and brunch menu is just one of the best. There is also a pre theatre menu, and you are not interrogated as to whether you are actually attending the theatre, for a very reasonable £10.95.

The wine list is masterful and not over long, sometimes a great relief to those who find it difficulty to navigate their way through an interesting list. Many bottles are available by the glass, very few cross the £20 mark. Helpfully each group of wines is classified under headings such as 'elegant and crisp', or 'full and rounded'.

Browns at Oxford are well able to deal with groups, and have special menus to look after their particular interests. Click on their excellent Website for further details and menu changes.