Brummells Seafood Restaurant

Located in one of Norwich's more raffish streets, the comparison ends there. Brummells is a real find, yet the extraordinary thing is that it's been there for decades without attracting too much attention. Is this another example of the good folk of Norfolk keeping the best bits for themselves? If so I don't blame them, but I think it is time a wider public was allowed to share the oceanic delights of this restaurant, modern on the outside but delightfully East Anglian inside, with mellow red brick and old fireplaces.

Chef Patron Andrew Brummell and John O'Sullivan have between them been awarded two Rosettes by the AA Restaurant Guide and take infinite care in offering a menu that exploits in the best way the plentiful supplies of local seafood. Their gourmet meals by candlelight are the sort of timeless events that are anticipated keenly by busy people who like markers of excellence to which to look forward as they toil away.

A choice of starter might include Brancaster mussels in creamed champagne sauce, delicious creamed fish soup made with coconut milk, six native oysters in the half shell, grilled sardines fillets with chilli oil on a bed of marinated mushrooms, or the most dreamy seafood pancakes topped with Ilchester ale cheese, lightly laced with a green Pernod sauce, then garnished with lumpfish caviar.

Their seafood platters are truly the stuff of which legends are made - take advice and go for the half lobster, prawns, crab claws and scallop. Lobster can be of Canadian or local origin, grilled with garlic butter or thermidor, and that minimalist king of dishes, Dover sole, is grilled and served with lemon on or off the bone. For something a little different look for the char-grilled tuna, left pink in the middle with a compote of fruity curry marmalade, an inspired blend of flavours.

Brummells is justly renowned for its seafood but this does not in any way lessen the care and precision with which outstandingly good meat dishes are prepared, and dedicated carnivores will head for the wild red deer venison steaks from Argyll, with a sweet and sour marsala and juniper berry jus, or prime English fillet or sirloin of beef.

In season just hope that the peppered fresh strawberries nesting in Chantilly cream and meringue with orange rum sauce are on the menu; otherwise perhaps the delightfully rich amaretto and dark chocolate pot - after all Brummells is a place of indulgence where constraints can be cast to the winds.

Après la guerre there is ample choice for those who would linger over something more than ordinarily scintillating in the way of fine cognac, single malts, armagnacs and liqueurs.

What I could say about the beautifully annotated wine list would take more space much more space than is available. Suffice to say that to find a list of this quality outside London is quite an experience, and one that in itself justifies a visit to this delightful restaurant.

Their Website is a pleasure to use, and for good measure they print the wine list. Go to it and see for yourself.