I once devoted quite a deal of time and effort into convincing one of our leading heritage bodies, for whom I worked at the time, into believing that it was not so much a matter of the food you offered to your visitors but the way in which you presented it. Fish and chips was one of our success stories, possibly because it was considered to be part of the British heritage anyway.

But not so much a part as it is at Bryan's in Leeds, where since 1934 they have been busy turning out this great dish for the delectation of the population, and right under Harry Ramsden's nose too.

In recent times Bryan's has moved upmarket, mainly under the guidance of Jan Fletcher, ably supported by Head Chef Darren Toft. "Head Chef", I hear you ask, "it's a chippie". Well yes, but it's also a good deal more, and frankly if I had to choose between eating a meal there or at an over-rated and mismanaged restaurant elsewhere, I know where my money would be.

Bryan's has a menu that covers almost every manifestation of seafood from starters, through salads, fish and chips, and desserts to what is described as "something not so fishy", which turns out to be a choice of beef or vegetable lasagne, or a beefburger of good parentage. And they have a licence.

"A Yorkshire institution where traditional food heritage meets contemporary chic" says their website. Could not put it better myself. Go along soon for your swordfish steak, smoked haddock Florentine, delicious seafood pie or Bryan's regular haddock - with chips, of course.

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