Bryce's Seafood Brasserie

It could be said that there are few more appropriate locations for a seafood restaurant than looking out over the briny towards a distant shore, another continent. This is not the place to dwell on the distinction between a brasserie and a restaurant; what does matter is the quality and nature of the place.

Bryce's is off to a good start with a setting right on the seafront on the west corner of what is known as The Steyne, with plenty of parking on the spot and only a short stroll from the multi-storey in the centre of town. Housed in a traditional building the overall impression both inside and out is white, cool and chic, with a sense of spaciousness and light.

There is no definition between say, lunch and dinner, a comfortably wide menu is served daily and every day, and many dishes are presented as starters or light courses, giving maximum flexibility and enjoyment. Amongst the starters and light meals expect to find half a dozen Loch Fyne oysters on ice with shallot pickle and Tabasco, the famous Cullen skink, that wonderful Scottish fish soup made with smoked haddock and potato, or warm fillets of sweet cured herring with fried chestnut mushrooms and pickled cucumber.

Main dishes emphasise the wonderful way they combine ingredients at Bryce's - look out for the unexpected, and invariably stimulating dishes that demonstrate this skill. Think roast filet of Shetland salmon with a pistachio crust, with glazed kumquats and mache salad, or more roast filet, this time of haddock on peas, shallot and cured ham in a Pimm's cream.

The old stalwarts make a vintage contribution in the form of the Brasserie pie, topped with cream potato, or the seafood dish of the day dependent upon the market, backed by a classy treatment of hake filet, en-papillote with wild mushrooms, garlic and mussels. That stirring dish, a grilled Arbroath smokie, arrives at table glazed with cheese sauce, and grilled Loch Fyne kippers are served traditionally with lemon thyme butter.

Favourite classics include pan seared herring roes on toast with garlic and herb butter, or baked Queen scallops on buttered spinach topped with hollandaise sauce, and from the grill a prime whole lemon sole, rainbow trout or local sea bass. Vegetarians will take pleasure in the tempura of baby vegetables served with a hot and sour dipping sauce, served as a starter or light meal.

All main dishes are served with wok fried green vegetables and a choice of chips, sauté or new potatoes. Amongst the side orders expect to find deep fried cauliflower, green beans and buttered spinach, all seafood-friendly and cooked with precision.

For those worthy souls who leave more fish for the rest of us there is char grilled Scotch rib eye steak with a peppercorn and brandy sauce, or excellent roast filet of Sussex pork on celeriac puree, with chestnut mushrooms and tarragon gravy.

Desserts are homemade and my eye was particularly drawn towards the strawberry and champagne jelly topped with Chantilly cream, with strawberry sorbet. My theory that seafood and cheese have a natural affinity is well served here with a selection of cheeses that include Mull of Kintyre, Keens Chedder, Stinking Bishop and Cashel blue, served with tomato chutney and wheat wafers.

Perhaps as refreshing as the quality of the cooking is their attitude towards service charges; no charge is made and any gratuities that appreciative customers may feel appropriate are given direct to the staff.

The restaurant takes last orders up to 9.30pm, so on a warm summer's night there is time after you have enjoyed your meal to take a leisurely stroll along the seafront..

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