Bryce's Seafood Brasserie

It could be said that there are few more appropriate locations for a seafood restaurant than looking out over the briny towards a distant shore, another continent. This is not the place to dwell on the distinction between a brasserie and a restaurant; what does matter is the quality and nature of the place, it should not therefore come as a surprise to find that the AA awarded it one rosette in 2009, the Michelin Guide has also included a mention of it in 2009.

Bryce's is off to a good start with a setting right on the seafront on the west corner of what is known as The Steyne, with plenty of parking on the spot and only a short stroll from the multi-storey in the centre of town. Housed in a traditional building the overall impression both inside and out is white, cool and chic, with a sense of spaciousness and light.

There is no definition between say, lunch and dinner, a comfortably wide menu is served daily and every day, and many dishes are presented as starters or light courses, giving maximum flexibility and enjoyment. Amongst the starters and light meals expect to find half a dozen Loch Fyne oysters on ice with shallot pickle and Tabasco, smoked salmon and puy lentil broth, potted crab, sashimi of salmon and king scallops with pickled ginger, wasabi and soy dip. Fantastic Shetland mussels also feature.

Main dishes emphasise the simple but skilled way the fruits of the sea are treated. Think prime Dover Sole, sea bass, roasted skate wing, brill, plaice or lemon sole. All of these are landed from day boats at Shoreham whenever possible. Freshness does not get better than this.

The old stalwarts make a vintage contribution in the form of the Brasserie pie, topped with cream potato, or the seafood dish of the day dependent upon the market, backed by a classy treatment of King scallops on portobello mushroom and blue cheese risotto or fillet of pollack "Florentine" with creamed potato. A real kick back to the old days.

Favourite classics include pan seared herring roes on toast with garlic and herb butter, or baked Queen scallops on buttered spinach topped with hollandaise sauce, or enjoy Loch Fyne oysters, crispy whitebait or a plate of beautifully smoked Shetland salmon. Vegetarians will take pleasure in the tempura of baby vegetables served with a hot and sour dipping sauce, served as a starter or light meal. A separate menu is always available.

All main dishes are served with wok fried green vegetables and a choice of chips, sauté or new potatoes. Amongst the side orders expect to find green beans and buttered spinach, or garlic tossed courgettes, all seafood-friendly and cooked with precision. For those worthy souls who leave more fish for the rest of us there is char grilled Scotch steak with a peppercorn and brandy sauce, or excellent Braised shank of Sussex lamb with minted gravy.

Desserts are homemade and the choice changes about every 4 weeks allowing maximum use of seasonal ingredients and the chef's imagination. My theory that seafood and cheese have a natural affinity is well served here with a selection of cheeses that include Mull of Kintyre, Keens Chedder, Port Salut and Cashel blue, served with tomato chutney and wheat wafers.

Perhaps as refreshing as the quality of the cooking is their attitude towards service charges; no charge is made and any gratuities that appreciative customers may feel appropriate are given direct to the staff.

The restaurant takes last orders up to 9.30pm, so on a warm summer's night there is time after you have enjoyed your meal to take a leisurely stroll along the seafront. Click on their Website for information on menu changes and up to the minute reviews.