Bryce's Seafood Restaurant

The ebullient Bill Bryce, a somewhat larger than life character, created Bryce's 17 years ago, bringing new meaning to the term 'pub grub', and revolutionising the standards of eating out in this part of Surrey, at Ockley, on Dorking's doorstep.

He has always said that all he wants is to send home happy customers, and that being mentioned in the major guides is totally unimportant. However, this worthy aim has not managed to escape their attention and Bryce's has been presented with the AA Best Seafood Pub in South and South East England award and is awarded 1 Rosette, sponsored by the Sea Fish Industry Authority. It was recognised by the Michelin Pub Guide 2009 and is also Egon Ronay recommended.

Bill, a long time member of the Master Chefs of Great Britain, has been a tireless worker in promoting the cause of British chefs and the quality available at restaurants in contemporary Britain. Bryce's is a good advertisement for that, open all week, and for long hours, it offers everything from excellent bar food through to a full à la carte restaurant menu, specialising in fresh fish and seafood at prices that represent excellent value. This extends to the cellar as well, with a large choice of house wines at £13.50, all carefully annotated, available by the glass also.

Personally, if I'm going to heaven food-wise I prefer to do it at the start of the meal in the devout hope that further elevations may follow, which is why I commend to you Bryce's langoustine bisque, a dreamy but firmly stated dish that seems to combine all the best of what I will call the liquid seafood dishes, and that includes Cullen Skink.

Trouble is there's competition in the form of lightly spiced crab cakes, and pan fried savoury soft herring roes, to name but two.

Main courses present a positive riot of choices for ardent foodies, with as much of the fish as possible, sourced from day boats landing at Shoreham. Starting with pan fried South Coast skate wing with caperberry butter, or fillets of South Coast sea bream on a mussel, chorizo and white bean cassoulet. A happy combination of flavours brings together pan-seared King scallops with butternut squash, ginger foam and honey roasted carrots.

Just in case you prefer fish with fish, all dishes can be prepared without any of the sauces or ingredients, though I do think that would be missing a good part of the meal.

To finish, how about a steamed orange and stem ginger pudding with Cointreau custard and vanilla ice cream? Other choices could include apple and rosemary tart tatin, butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice cream or a raspberry and kiwi fruit crème brûlée with its own fruit compote and raspberry ice cream. What a superb selection; no wonder Bryce's is so consistently busy.

A few concessions to those who need meat under any circumstances, even when at Bryce's, can be found in the excellent bar menu.

There is full disabled access and smart, dapper staff assist in making the whole process a real delight.