The ebullient Bill Bryce, a somewhat larger than life character, created Bryce's 19 years ago, bringing new meaning to the term 'pub grub', and revolutionising the standards of eating out in this part of Surrey, at Ockley, on Dorking's doorstep. He has always said that all he wants is to send home happy customers, and that being mentioned in the major guides is totally unimportant. However, this worthy aim has not managed to escape their attention and Bryce's has been presented with the AA Best Seafood Pub in South and South East England award and was awarded 1 Rosette, sponsored by the Sea Fish Industry Authority. It was also recognised by the Michelin Pub Guide 2009, while Harden's Guide has also commended Bryce's as 'The Best Fish Restaurant in Surrey' from diners reports.

Bill, a long time member of the Master Chefs of Great Britain, has been a tireless worker in promoting the cause of British chefs and the quality available at restaurants in contemporary Britain. Bryce's is a good advertisement for that, open all week, and for long hours, it offers everything from excellent bar food through to a full à la carte restaurant menu, specialising in fresh fish and seafood at prices that represent excellent value. This extends to the cellar as well, with a large choice of house wines at £14.50, all carefully annotated, available by the glass also.

Personally, if I'm going to heaven food-wise I prefer to do it at the start of the meal in the devout hope that further elevations may follow, which is why I commend to you Bryce's trio of Arbroath smokie offering a quail egg, fishcake and flaked smokie with crème fraîche.

Trouble is there's competition in the form of fillets of south coast mackerel with tomato, basil and goats' cheese salad, lightly spiced crab cakes or pan seared king scallops with celeriac remoulade and crispy pancetta, to name but three.

Main courses present a positive riot of choices for ardent foodies, with as much of the fish as possible, sourced from day boats landing at Shoreham. Starting with pan-fried plaice fillets on buttered spinach, light cheddar sauce and chive potato cake, or fillets of South Coast sea bream on orange braised chicory, beetroot puree and lyonnaise potatoes. A happy combination of flavours brings together fillets of fresh fish with a cardamom sauce and pea shoots. South coast sea bass and grey mullet will also vie for your attention with Moroccan spiced cod on fruit rice.

Just in case you prefer fish with fish, all dishes can be prepared without any of the sauces or ingredients, though I do think that would be missing a good part of the meal.

To finish, how about a vanilla and peach iced parfait with mango sorbet? Other choices could include apple and pear tart tatin and cinnamon ice cream or a glazed lemon and lime tart with pineapple sorbet, not forgetting an assiette of chocolate or pannacotta, summer berry compote and cinnamon shortbread. What a superb selection; no wonder Bryce's is so consistently busy.

A few concessions to those who need meat under any circumstances, even when at Bryce's, can be found in the excellent bar menu. There is full disabled access and smart, dapper staff assist in making the whole process a real delight.

Their Website is well worth visiting as a prelude to the real thing.