Buddon Restaurant, The

This 18th century hotel with more recent additions is located on the edge of the Charnwood Forest between Leicester and Loughborough and has recently acquired new owners who have brought a fresh approach to the place. A priority has been the creation of the Buddon restaurant, named after a local stretch of woodland renowned for its hunting qualities.

A pressed terrine of local wild duck could reasonably be expected to hold that extra flavour and the apple and pear compote makes a good accompaniment: for those looking for something nearer the sea the smoked haddock and prawn salad or the roast fillets of red mullet with a herb crust make good reading. Not normally one for chicken unless I know its history I might nonetheless be moved to try the panfried breast of chicken filled with a wild mushroom and smoked bacon mousse astride a roasted red pepper coulis or more possibly the roast pheasant, also panfried, on a casserole of its leg. Desserts kick off with a lime custard pie with star fruit, or carambola to give everyone their due, and an interesting choice of Granny Smith apple fritters served with an apple cider soup.

The coffee comes with dainty little petit fours. The wine list is not vast but contains sufficient to cover all but the most demanding, starting with bottles at £11.