Bumpkin, The

You live in London but you're a countryperson by heart, or maybe you're just up for a few days and the ways of the countryside are calling you back. And what is one of the things we miss the most? Yes, you've twigged, it's that good ol' home cookin'. So steady on, no need to get hasty about this, just head on down to Westbourne Park Road and ask for Bumpkin.

Down on the ground floor of the four storey building you will find the Country Brasserie, offering snacks, brunch, lunch or informal dinner. Bumpkin pies, gourmet salads, rotisserie, grilled fish and meats are all on offer every day of the week. If it's a question of something a touch more formal, then up the stairs to the first floor restaurant where more classical dishes prevail with starters of ham hock, black pudding and apple terrine with piccalilli, and perhaps a main course of rack of lamb, crushed potatoes and black olives. The Sunday roast from midday to 4.40pm is an urban solution to a meal that is popular no matter where you eat, and it's wise to make reservations at all times.

The next two floors are devoted to private parties on request and are well equipped for some really chilled out living

Their sourcing is admirable, in particular the meat from Frank Godfrey, the Highbury butcher, one of the few in London licensed to sell pure-bred Aberdeen Angus beef. Fruit and vegetables come from a farm just outside Guildford, where chemicals and pesticides are banned.

So unpack the overnight bag, no need to go all that way for some decent country cooking, but be sure to keep the rural option warm, just in case.