Bunk Inn, The

Located in the deep heart of the West Berkshire countryside, and it doesn't come much deeper than that, The Bunk Inn is a well run family country inn with rooms, all of a very high order which, in the days before we became a bit more relaxed about such matters might have been called an hotel.

It is full of warmth and comfort, yet is only a few minutes away from the M4 and A34. There is a regular de-bunking of modern myths and notions that might lack spontaneity or depth. A much travelled businessman once remarked that the full English breakfast at The Bunk was the best he had ever eaten, which incidentally gives a whole new meaning to the word 'full'.

Whilst you toy with menus, wine lists and nigh impossible choices, ramekins of mixed olives, or hot spring rolls await your attention. The overall pattern may be resolutely British, but who would dare argue that a well tuned starter selection of dim sum is now anything but an add-on to the British way of life? Should you have a problem with that take a closer look at the smoked chicken with prawn and avocado served with mixed leaves, or the potted shrimps complete with toasted soldiers.

For the vegetarian inclination, a source of excitement awaits with the main course "Fundamentally Fungus" dish, sautéed wild mushrooms and poached egg on toasted brioche, served with Hollandaise sauce and mixed leaves. Many may be drawn to the half shoulder of lamb with a port and redcurrant gravy. Steaks, done to your liking, are served properly with chips and one of their homemade sauces, or if you insist, a grilled mushroom and tomato.

Desserts present the customary welter of temptations that can catch even the most hardened dieter behind the knees. Hot sticky toffee pudding with vanilla pod ice cream, fresh strawberry pavlova, or an old fashioned lemon posset, originally a medieval form of refreshment, all await your pleasure, along with many others.

The Bunk has around 10 sound wines by the glass, well supported by an interesting and thoughtful List. Service is willing and able, with more than a touch of humour.