Burgh Island Hotel

If anyone compiled a list of unusual and beautiful places in which to eat, as well as stay, Burgh Island, just off the Devon coast, would surely be near the top of the list. A Grade II listed art deco hotel it was acquired by Deborah Clark and Tony Orchard in 2001, since when very substantial renovations have been carried out and this graceful building has achieved faultlessly the transition from past to present, retaining the best of both.

'Fruity' Metcalfe, that legendary figure of the era of Edward VIII, remarked 'It is essential to change one's goggles for a clean pair before the drive down to Bigbury - the view commands it . . .'

Separated from the mainland by some 200 metres of silver sand, the hotel can be reached at low tide on foot with ease or guests can call for 4WD transport. At high tide the famed sea tractor, a purpose built unique vehicle, will transport you when the conditions are right.

The whole essence of the place revolves around a ready sense of the relaxed formality of the 30s and if Noel Coward poled up unexpectedly he would find that little had changed in that respect.

And he would without doubt be delighted by the expert ministrations of Conor Henegan, formerly of Pier 9 in Brisbane, one of Australia's finest seafood restaurants, and now Head Chef at Burgh Island. Working with a daily changing menu the hotel offers a three course dinner menu preceded by canapés, served in the Ballroom, with black tie dress code preferred. On Wednesdays and Saturdays there is also a dance with live music.

Whilst lunch in the hotel is an option only on a Sunday, The Pilchard Inn offers a less formal lunch. Initially a 14th century hideout for those wishing to keep reasonable space between themselves and the law, those same gentry would have approved of the 'robust and rounded English food' now served at the Inn via the Hotel's kitchens, though what they would have to say about the excellent curry night on Friday evenings might be less certain.

The menu takes few risks and recognisable dishes from a fusion interpretation are the norm. Seared scallops with artichoke soup, celeriac, Parmesan tart, chicory, tomato and cress salad, or lobster with asparagus and soft duck egg with macadamia nut dressing could provide a starter.

These could be followed by a roast pigeon breast with garlic confit potato, English asparagus, soya beans, lemon bread sauce, caper and juniper dressing, or steamed organic salmon served with butternut pumpkin, scallops, pak choi, tomato, coconut and galangal broth.

For puddings the ultimate must surely be pineapple tart tatin with Malibu ice cream, closely followed by chocolate terrine with pistachio custard. Conor has been known to describe his food as 'clean, contemporary and complete' and it is an apt summary.

There is something special about leaving the mainland for an island anywhere, even if it is only two hundred metres away, and whether your sojourn at Burgh Island is a few hours or a few days matters little, the magic is there.

Winston Churchill, who had a wonderful penchant for seeking out unusual, even eccentric, places in which to relax, was a visitor to Burgh Island. When you go there watch out for a brief glimpse of the ethereal but portly figure sat on some vantage point, easel before him, there one moment, gone the next, or listen in a quiet corner of the ballroom for the faint echoes of a spirited Charleston.

Details on their unique bedrooms, including wonderful photographs of each one, information on weddings, their menus and wine list, all this can be found on their Website.