Burlington, The

An informal, local, bistro-style restaurant run by Redmond and Pippa Hayward who have Redmonds. The same qualities that have made them such a powerful combination at East Sheen, with a Michelin Star in 1992 for Redmond, are at work in Chiswick, and Pippa's front of house style and ability to put together a wine list of real character also play their part.

In surroundings that are chic, but quietly so, they offer a menu that is essentially Modern British and designed to make the most of the produce, leaving fancy garnishes and other flights of fancy to others. Their autumn menu is a typical collection of classics that include such dishes as mussels and clams with garlic, ginger and coriander, or a salad of Jerusalem artichokes with green beans, shallots, parsley and shaved Parmesan with truffle oil.

Roast pheasant could hardly be more traditional, and fillets of plaice are served with coriander and spring onion mayonnaise to make a delicate dish.

Wines bear the unmistakable hallmark of Pippa Hayward, rather longer than an average bistro list, with half the wines under the £25 mark. 3 red and 3 white house wines come in large or small glasses, some half bottles and a few whoppers at the top end. As an example of how to meet customer demand it could hardly be bettered.

It is professionally run restaurants such as The Burlington that will stay the course, and why? Because they are customer-led and pretension-free.