After 19 years at 21 Queen Street, Terry Laybourne has moved his café to an improved site in Trinity Gardens, not far away for those who arrive baffled to find him gone, as it were.

Menu-wise, not a lot has changed and their claim to create simple, imaginative dishes with respect for the ingredients continues to be practised with skill and success. This is food to please and fill, in the nicest way. The spread of menu ensures that all points of the scale can have their needs met and feel content.

The main à la carte menu has a commendable range of dishes as a result, with almost 20 starters from which to choose, including aubergine caviar, Provençal fish soup, or double fried eggs with griddled foie gras. Mains of wild sea trout, a casserole of new season's lamb, rare breed pork belly, or fishcakes with buttered spinach, parsley cream and chips all draw on an interesting selection of side dishes for support.

Desserts enjoy the same imaginative approach, with banana and pecan rolls with toffee ice cream at the top of my list.

Decor is smart chic, with mink leather on the rampage and plenty of dark wood around. The Wine List follows the same policy as the food and it is possible to drink comfortably and well without breaking the bank.