Cafe 21

Alan Smeaton (12 April 2008)

I have been eating Terry Laybourne's food for over twenty years and when he opened 21 Queen Street restaurant it was a revelation. Although sad when 21 dropped its Michelin star and changed into a brasserie, the quality of the food remained high and prices were more affordable. Now they have moved to a bigger premise, a few hundred yards away from the old site. I waited quite a while before I first visited the new place, a bit concerned that it just wouldn't be the same but was mistaken. They have top notch people, both in the kitchen and front of house. My wife and I, who are regulars, are treated superbly. The a la carte is extensive, I have been eating the cheddar cheese and spinach soufflé for many years - a light yet intensely flavoured dish. I also love the risotto done with tiger prawns, pancetta and truffle oil. My wife loves the black pudding raviolis and the beetroot salad served with a poached egg. Last time our mains were slow cooked shoulder of beef served with two celeries and calves liver served with onions, apple and bacon - both were delightful and the beef was soft. The lemon sponge pudding with crème fraiche is difficult to resist and the wine list is well thought out with mark-ups that aren't rapacious. I am an ordinary paying customer who has had many happy times eating at Café 21.

RPM (6 November 2007)

Much to my shame, I had never eaten there in its previous incarnation, but had heard good things, and it certainly met my expectations. The food was great, and not pretentious. The service was friendly and helpful though one staff member wasn't briefed on the contents of one dish. There is a great choice of wine, and it is worth the money. My partner is vegetarian and had to ask for a separate menu as there were no vegetarian main courses on the main menu, but she was given plenty of choice and not just the predictable risotto. It is highly recommended.