Calistoga Southside

Calistoga is Edinburgh's only restaurant specialising in Californian cuisine, a style that should not under any circumstances be confused with American. Instead Gordon Minnis, the owner, describes it perfectly as "light, fresh and healthy".

Gordon, who was formerly manager at Haldane's and Jacksons, brings his wealth of experience to bear at Calistoga with an unusual and positive attitude towards the normal high mark-ups on wines by restricting his to a mere £5 on cost, thus rendering bottles that are normally out of reach of the paying public to become accessible instead. Providentially next door to the restaurant is Sideways Wine Store where you can buy the great wines on the list. The choice is exclusively Californian, but hey! who cares? The shop also has a tasting bar where you can try wines free of charge - a great way to start your evening, but don't lose sight of your original intention.

It is considered that fusion cuisine was invented in California, not too surprising when you consider the fascinating ethnic mix there, and the selection at Calistoga demonstrates that, perfectly illustrated by starters that could include dishes as diverse as spring onion and creamy corn chowder with organic toast, manchego cheese and chive fritters with tomato plum jam, or King prawn and King scallop skewer with tamari dressing and mouli tumbleweed.

The choice of main courses is equally as inventive; how could you possibly resist the temptation of Recado ribeye steak with roast baby potatoes, beets, baby spinach, goats cheese and balsamic, a roast eggplant salad with carrot cous cous, vegetable tangle and poppy seed dressing, grilled pink bream with lemon and watercress, baby potato salad and Russian River dressing, or spiced cob chic udon with miso broth, bok choi and enoki?

For the more hunger-challenged amongst us there are side dishes such as round sweet potato fries, steamed sushi rice with soy sauce, and a mixed salad with a raspberry vinaigrette. But desserts await, and from a field of five my money was on the banana and cinnamon spring roll with mint pesto, or perhaps the trio of artisan cheeses with quince and wheat wafers.

Lunch on Thursday through to Monday at Calistoga runs from 1230 to 1430, with exceptional value at £11 for two courses and £14 for three. Pre theatre is served daily from 1700 to 1815 at the same prices.

Wine tasting dinners are serious stuff at Calistoga, starting with a 30 minute tutored wine tasting for £27 that includes a 3 course dinner and coffee, topping out at a 90 minute tasting at £35 to including canapés at the tasting, 3 course dinner cheese with Starboard and coffee, which must be helpful in sorting out the men from the boys.

Calistoga was also hit listed by "The List" magazine. However, don't take our word for it, but instead have a look at their Website, which has the latest menus on it and lots more information on Calistoga, which has established itself as another star in the culinary firmament of Edinburgh, and proving beyond any shadow of doubt that swanky premises don't matter a toss - it's all about the food - and drink.