Camellia Restaurant, The

This handsome hotel must have been the most wonderful family home to Frederick Du Cane Godman. Built in 1883 it was based on the fruits of Victorian enterprise and diligence as exhibited through Whitbread & Co. Frederick had inherited, so he was able to enjoy the property to the full though much of his life as a gentleman explorer took him overseas.

The grounds contain the largest single rhododendron in England, the 'Cornish' Arboretum, over 150 years old and standing 25 feet tall. Winston Churchill was a frequent guest at the house.

The main dining room is christened the Camellia Restaurant and is on the grand scale, like almost everything else at South Lodge. Starters of pork and apple consist of slow cooked belly of pork with apple compote, sherry reduction and cinnamon foam. Selsey lobster is served with spaghetti and more foam.

Main courses number about 6 choices and include saddle of venison, ceppolenta, root vegetable cassoulet with white and dark chocolate sauces. Service is mixed. Desserts are, pro rata much more interesting, with a quince strudel, cognac foam and passion fruit coulis, and a superb classic treacle tart with ginger ice cream.

Given that to me foam in cooking is not acceptable, this could be rather a problem but you can skirt round it, and thank heaven nobody has yet thought of serving foam with cheese - have they?

South Lodge is part of the Exclusive Group of hotels, and has much to commend it. One can quite see why Winston was enchanted.