In England there is a tendency, never more pronounced than in Border counties presumably still smarting from the past excesses of Welsh marauders, to hold a measure of disregard for those who grow the leek, particularly their culinary abilities. This is something I have never gone along with and if supportive evidence was required it is to be found at Carlton Riverside, as it was AA Wales Restaurant of the Year 2007/2008.

After being struck by the exterior colour of the restaurant, a fetching shade of blue, the eager diner is confronted with an interesting a la carte. A typical meal could consist of a Thai seafood salad with crayfish and prawns in a lime and ginger vinaigrette.

It would hardly be Wales without fillet of Welsh black beef, pan-seared and topped with tapenade, accompanied by buttered spinach and a herbed polenta cake, followed by a warm chocolate fondant with autumn berries positively steeped in brandy.

Whilst this may sound daunting to some the overall effect, such is the creation of the dishes, is pleasing and does not depress the palate. A worthy wine list is supportive of this beacon of good food.