Carnarvon Arms

After an extensive refit the Carnarvon Arms is back in business in no uncertain fashion, with Rob Clayton, formerly of The Priory Hotel, Bath, at the helm in the kitchens. It is said the aim is bridge the gap between a gastropub and a restaurant. I'm not sure most of their customers will be too bothered about the distinction, as long as what arrives on the table is to their liking. Already it has been described as "sensational", a sort of marriage of the informality of a decent pub with Michelin quality food.

Around eight starters could include cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup with pancetta, a fresh Portland crab with fine past lobster sauce, or a crispy tart of creamed leeks ands Dorset Blue Vinney.

The country round the Carnarvon Arms is quite baronial so do not be surprised to find roasted hen pheasant breast with gratin potatoes, Savoy cabbage and chorizo mushroom sauce on the menu. The Scots weigh in with Loch Duart salmon, a sautéed fillet with creamed leeks and pancetta, or there is honey roasted Gressingham duck breast with fondant potato and braised red cabbage. A dish fit for a hungry man comes in the form of pork and leek sausages, mashed potatoes, broccoli and shallot sauce.

Desserts yield a medley of indulgence starting with the now traditional sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and a vanilla bean pannacotta and berry compote. It says on the menu that smaller portions are available for children, which is very thoughtful of them, but likely to have been received with heavy silence by our four, who are fond of their tucker.

I am never quite sure whether you can tell the clientele from the average prices on the wine list, but here they have a good range, obvious care taken in selection, neatly categorised into human inclination, for instance "For Movers, Shakers and Makers: Full bodied, rich and creamy". Yes, seems about right.