Paul Carvosso is one of the doyens of the restaurant industry, having created many fine places in London over the years, but, when his eyes lit upon the old High Road Police Station, which had been derelict for some twenty five years, he spotted an opportunity that others had missed and created one of the most unusual dining outlets in Chiswick.

Many times we had passed it by without realising the delights that lay within as - whilst it is undoubtedly attractive from the front, it does not appear that impressive with apparently only a bar and a few dining tables - but what a mistake, as inside the full extent becomes apparent, with various areas to eat in, including private rooms, several of which have been converted from the old cells, while another houses the wine cellar, the old lock coming in useful yet again.

There is also a large courtyard, which is extremely popular throughout much of the year as they have lamps and a canopy, and if you traipse up the unusual staircase made from old pews you can find the large first floor with its own bar, perfect for every kind of party.

Food wise they specialise in fish, using a supplier that gets his direct from the boats on the Sussex coast, so it is guaranteed to be really fresh and appears in various guises, including their famed smoked haddock pie, the idea of which was too tempting for me to be able to resist, and thankfully I didn't as this superb rendition arrived, a huge portion, made from proper undyed haddock - as the dyed variety is a pet hate of mine - enough to finish off any practising trencherman.

Whilst their chicken is free range, stuffed with mozzarella and wrapped in Parma ham, and these could be preceded by a wonderful terrine of smoked salmon and prawn with dill crème fraîche or Portuguese sardines simply grilled with watercress and lemon.

They charge sensibly for the area, while at lunchtime and pre 7 pm they offer an amazingly good value set menu. The wine list is superb and reasonably priced, with the vast majority of bottles at under £30, but then one of the partners is a well known wine merchant, as Sauvignon fans we were thoroughly spoilt by a selection from different countries.

Lastly, it is worth mentioning that Carvosso's at 210 was absolutely humming, but not too surprising as it is one of the most interesting, individual and different restaurants in the area.