Cavendish Restaurant, The

One of a range of tasteful conversions resulting in small intimate hotels with the Indian-themed restaurant very much the centrepiece. Not that there is anything very Indian about the food which is of a high quality and almost qualifying for the international appellation in terms of scope.

The seared mackerel escabeche with a herb salad competes with a warm cheese and onion marmalade tartlet for starters. In the realm of mains the choice remains wide and includes honey glazed belly of pork with an apple and celeriac mash or the most delicious char-grilled poussin Maryland (smoked bacon, banana and sweetcorn fritters). For pasta try the creamy shellfish reduction with linguini and pan-fried grey mullet.

Passion fruit and Pimms cheesecake does sound rather like something for 14 Feb, so in case you need a back-up go for the lemon grass crème brulee with polenta biscuits.

A sturdy wine list completes the picture with house wine at £15.