Chaam Northern Thai Cuisine just off Fulham Broadway is a perfect example of how the growth of Thai cuisine in Britain has provided a healthy - in all senses - option to other eastern styles of food to which we have grown accustomed, indeed very attached, in recent times. But there has always been something rather different about Thai eating, and that difference has caught the spirit of the age with increasing enthusiasm.

Thai cuisine is a 'green' style, it carries with it mental pictures of spotless kitchens, careful preparation and refined results, with flavours that are delicate to the point of subtlety, and impeccable service. All this and more has caught the eating-out public's imagination.

Chaam sets out to achieve all this but to take the experience a stage further by introducing some of the lesser known Thai dishes, the sort of thing that is enjoyed in Thailand as a matter of course, but does not seem to have made the jump much further afield. It can lay some claim to be in a position to do this well, as a third generation Thai restaurant, and a sibling to Papaya Tree in Kensington High Street.

An elegant and quite lengthy menu sets the tastebuds jumping from the word go. Chaam styles itself as a Thai Eatery, though in truth that is a bit of an understatement. No surprise therefore to find that number one on the menu is tom yum, the much-loved hot and sour soup with rice noodles, black tiger prawns, bean sprouts and crushed peanuts. Thai boat noodles were originally served from small boats in the floating markets of Thailand, and come with sliced sirloin beef in a special Thai herb soup. Look also for the kao soi and nahm ngeaw, soup noodles which equate to the excellent street food of other places.

Amongst the fried noodles expect to find kao pad boh thek talay, stir fried rice with seafood and mushroom in a sharp tom yum sauce. Morning glory may help those who had enough of their vegetables when young and force fed to take another view at the delightful mix fried with chilli and garlic.

A good mix of curries brings out the red, green and yellow versions, but the penang goong, a peanutty curry of king prawns, coconut milk and shredded kaffir leaves is also much favoured. The gentle green curry of chicken, bamboo shoots, coconut milk and baby eggplants demonstrates Thai cooking at its simple best.

Seabass wrapped in banana leaf, and char-grilled rib eye steak with spicy cracked rice dip are two of the less well-known dishes in Britain, and it is refreshing to know that much of Chaam's ingredients are flown in twice weekly from Thailand.

The delicacy of Thai cooking lends itself well to the refinement of wine and a small but entirely empathetic wine list embraces a contemporary outlook.

Chaam does free deliveries to SW6, SW5 and SW10 postcodes, others can be arranged, just call them. Minimum order is £20 and they aim to deliver within 45 minutes. Keep abreast of events at Chaam with a click on their excellent Website.