Champignon Sauvage, Le

Cheltenham conjures up images of rows of wonderful Georgian houses and a thoroughly elegant image. However, you will find Le Champignon Sauvage is situated in a rather more mundane street, though quite close to the centre of town.

Proving that appearances are not everything, once you get inside you could be in another world as the place is strikingly decorated, with strong colours, mainly yellow and blue, with contemporary art on the walls but of even greater importance is the fact that David Everitt-Mathias is undoubtedly one of the most talented chefs in Britain and his wife Helen is a welcoming and helpful hostess.

After over sixteen years of success they are immensely confident in what they produce, basically French but with modern overtones. His descriptions are deceptively simple like braised beef cannelloni, sauerkraut, caramelised beetroot or tortellini of eel with a watercress cream to start, but what arrives on the plate is more akin to a work of art.

Follow that with: fillet of sea bream, pan-fried, creamed parsnips with clams; chump of lamb with rosemary, cauliflower and macaroni dumpling; loin of veal and its sweetbread with black olive purée and crushed aubergine or fillet of Wiltshire pork, home-made black pudding and stuffed cabbage, and you will have become a convert.

But you must save room for his desserts, as who could possibly resist hot fig tart with a honey spice bread ice cream or light lemon mousse with a rich milk sorbet.

The wine list - as you would expect - concentrates mainly on France, but also wanders off to the New World as well. Sensible pricing is also a feature. Amazingly they offer examples from Quincy, Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé at under £20, while their house wines are only £10.50.

If you are looking for an even greater bargain, then go there for lunch or dinner during the week and feast on sublime food for incredibly reasonable prices. Truly a gem.