Chaophraya - Leeds

Their website obligingly tells you the name is pronounced Chow-pie-a, which could save possible embarrassment when ringing to make a booking. But this typifies the whole attitude of the place. Manchester Confidential is quoted as saying, "Every single restaurant in Manchester should send their restaurant here for staff training".

Authentically presented as a Thai interior the results are more than ordinarily impressive with a décor that positively encourages participation.

When it comes to food one could really hardly ask for more. The star of the show is without doubt The Royal Chaophraya, a gargantuan feast based on the celebrations for the celebration of King Bhummibol, the Thai King and the world's longest reigning monarch (2008).

To enjoy this regal gorge one must give them, and your digestion, 48 hours notice and, oh yes, £80 a head but not in advance. Hours of marinades and preparation go into it, and the result is a meal to remember.

For less exalted mortals even the à la carte menu could well be described as gourmet of its kind. An extensive range of appetisers perhaps reflects the trend for Thai food to go along the small bites route, though in truth they are generous, and the special mixed appetisers dish for two persons is a mini feast.

The famous fisherman soup is of course listed, along with gaeng panang, red Thai curry at its best. A series of set menus for more than two people gives some good value choices, and lovers of seafood will rejoice in the eight main dishes that include old favourites and new, amongst them steamed lobster marinated in curry paste and egg with white cabbage and holy basil.

Personally, I find myself hoping the highly popular Thai monarch enjoys a further eight years at the helm, even if only to see what the chef's devise for his next anniversary feast.