Chasers, The

I sometimes think that the locating of restaurants in almost any country is rather like picking mushrooms. You wander round a likely area picking the obvious ones, the big ones first of course, decide you need some more and start looking for the more obscured variety, with an occasional real winner lurking in a well camouflaged corner.

Coming upon somewhere like the Chasers is such a case, to the point where one reviewer was selfish enough to ask herself whether the inhabitants of Devon really deserved this wundebar place, and should it not be moved bodily to Chelsea or at the very least St John's Wood. Perhaps there would not have been such enthusiasm for its previous incarnation when it was called the House of Prawns

Not surprising though when you consider that Chasers seems to have everything going for it, including chef Darron Bunn and his wife Hayley who seems to look after front of house in a thoroughly able and unassuming way.

Expect to find roasted tomato soup with basil oil, ham hock, potato and foie gras terrine, or the Chasers fishcake made from salmon and cod with a poached egg perched on top. Finish with chocolate terrine, marmalade ice cream and a small circle of sponge and for that or something similar you will have paid a fraction of what you would have been obliged to cough up in one of those places mentioned above.

This is neighbourhood eating at its best - are we ready for it?