Cheyne Walk Brasserie

Formerly La Chaumiere, of very short-lived infamy, out of the ashes has emerged this completely new look, elegant design by Shaun Clarkson, with powder blue banquettes, ever so slightly suburban chandeliers (but what the hell?) and bum-worthy carver chairs that make sitting down feel worth while. Mirrors help to improve the room's proportions too. What of the menu? Former customers will recall a rather boring menu, with little room for movement. This has vanished and in its place is a carte menu where the best has been retained and the rest has gone. So the memorable grills remain and both starters and desserts take on a considerably rosier hue.

No liberties have been taken with the wine and the list remains staunchly French, also quite expensive, though this is somewhat compensated for by the interest level. Fortunately the cocktails also have a high level of fascination and are much better value.