Fish sadly is an expensive commodity these days, but at this exceedingly French seafooder - they handle it well at Chez Patrick (formerly called Stratford's for many years, but basically unchanged apart from the name) and it is always fresh.

You should introduce yourself to the manager/owner Patrick, and then follow his recommendations over what is the best of the good selection of fish on offer.

Many of its patrons seem to feel that it should be even more popular than it is, but possibly the fact that it is in a little backwater in Stratford Village, between Cromwell Road and Kensington High Street has something to do with this. However, it certainly has a devoted following of long-time fans.

They have a very simple system, you choose the fish and then how you want it cooked, accompanied with a straightforward selection of sauces. The monkfish roasted with garlic is absolutely wonderful.

Naturally their wine list is mainly French with good examples in white from teh Loire, and do enjoy a great glass of Muscat de Rivesaltes with your dessert. There is only a rather short list of puddings, but do note that the chocolate mousse and crème brûlée are to die for, whilst they also have excellent sorbets.

Beware of one thing though, they do levy a fairly hefty 15 per cent service charge.

BARGAIN: At lunchtime they offer one of the best value menus in London, three courses for £12.50 of sublime food, superb value, but plus that 15 per cent service charge.