China Tang has brought a whole new dimension to that well-worn British phrase "just slipping round the corner for a Chinese". Quite apart from any racial considerations that might be involved, this does very much less than justice to this superb Chinese restaurant that opened its doors in the depths of The Dorchester, which in itself should give a thumping great clue.

David Tang, an extraordinarily influential citizen of Hong Kong, has many other successful irons in the fire, including the China Club of that city, and he is certainly rolling them in to this combination of many of the benchmarks of Western civilization and an international cuisine that has become second nature to the Brits.

No detail has been spared, from the elegant décor, through the wonderful food to the loos that set new standards in such matters. This is one of those restaurants where you know, as you walk through the door, that everything will indeed be alright and that all you have to do is relax and let it wash over you, knowing you are in the hands the experts.

China Tang is doing for Chinese cuisine in London what The Cinnamon Club has done for Indian.