Chloe's Restaurant

This new gift to that part of the population of Plymouth that cares about good food is arguably the best in the city. French chef Didier Franchet and his fiancée Jo have clearly decided that it is time modern French cuisine came to Plymouth, and few would disagree.

Let's start with the piano, a Waldstein baby grand, where every evening a pianist caresses the strings of the piano and the emotions of the diners with romantic melodies. Such customs as champagne before dinner and a measured approach to the evening are cultivated to the point where every meal at Chloe's is a satisfying memory.

The menu is inspired by Pierre Gagnaire and Alain Ducasse whose experience gleams through an array of dishes chosen from a combination of old favourites and interesting twists on traditional themes. Starters on the carte number around eight and could include coquille St Jacques a la Coque, a traditional French charcuterie board with cured meats, saucisson, pate, ham and rillette with a ornichon and baby onion mix, or Chloe's foie gras trilogy on toasted bread.

It's not every restaurant where I would take kindly to the suggestion of rabbit leg as a main dish, but I would here, done moutarde and served with gratin Dauphinois. A traditional beef Bourguignon is served in a copper pot accompanied by fresh tagliatelle tossed in butter, whilst vegetarians will rejoice in gnocchi and wild mushroom pasta gratin.

Chloe's can command fish as fresh as anywhere and the roasted back of local lemon sole with glazed vegetables in a lemon butter has to be one of the great classic dishes of all time though the cassolette des copains carries fillet of catch of the day set on a bed of Cornish cod, potato puree, flash cooked spinach and Hollandaise sauce with a golden grilled finish comes a very close second. Each dish is a symphony of tasteful design and top class ingredients.

Five desserts plus a fine selection of English and French cheeses ranges from a simple fresh fruit salad with a lemon sorbet quenelle through Rochelle's hot chocolate gooey gooey with a short glass of liquid chocolate and raspberry foam to the most wonderful red fruit summer sabayon.

Lobster and champagne evenings are held around once a month, the centrepiece of which is grilled lobster with cognac and tarragon sauce, starting with lobster bisque and croustille.

A wine list makes up for its brevity by the skill with which it is chosen, starting with an unoaked Terret from Michael Laroche and moving upwards. A reserve list awaits attention from the discerning wine connoisseur.

Close by is the Theatre Royal and Chloe's opens at 5.30pm for pre theatre dinners, and bless them, they do supper after the show for orders taken between 10.00 and 10.20pm. This place is a great find and the sort of restaurant that cares for its regulars whilst providing a welcome surprise for newcomers.

A friendly Website keeps up to date with events and menu changes.