A splendid new Chinese restaurant in this attractive town, with easy parking. Ignore the modest exterior; within you will be delighted by the approach to what has now become almost as traditional as steak and kidney pie in Britain. Everything is done with tremendous care and whilst you may wait a little longer as a consequence, the results are in a class of their own.

The dim sum has a wonderful consistency and flavour spring rolls are crisp without resisting entry. Chef's Feasts range from £15 to £29 a head and represent very good value. Service is discreet with the results of thorough training making their mark. Yes, there is background music, but it really is background and my guess is that the majority of customers are lulled rather than irritated.

The wine list is well above average for a restaurant of this origin and the possible after effects of a glass of Chinese grain-based liqueur called Moutai should be considered with care.