Cilantro seeks to rewrite the definition of Indian dining by bringing in the idea of 'evolved cuisine'. The cooking clearly demonstrates how distinct regional styles have progressed and delivers flavours with credible flair. The three Indians behind this venture are obviously overjoyed as it is their paean to home cooking.

The menu takes you through a gastronomic journey of India, so there could be stir fried squid rings with crushed coconut and curry leaves from the central region or the deep fried nizam vegetable roll, a typical street food of Calcutta. Main courses could travel north with the hot lamb curry prepared with a red chilli paste and the delicately flavoured pistachio chicken, while the seafood is primarily South India's forte with occasional touches from the coast of Bengal, think king prawn in mustard gravy and Goan Scottish salmon curry.

Cilantro's interior with clean lines and Indian artwork sets the tone for a fine meal.