Chef and owner Gilles Epié named Citrus Etoile in honour of his friend Michel Richard and his Los Angeles restaurant, Citrus. Gilles's food is remarkable and this is evident from the fact that he still holds the record of being the youngest recipient of the coveted Michelin star at age twenty-two.

After earning plaudits at their previous successful ventures, L'Orangerie and Chez Gilles in Beverly Hills, the husband and wife team decided to continue their gastronomic journey back in France. They believe that the best produce to satisfy the most demanding clients in the world is available in Paris, and an enormous cépe cooked and served whole epitomizes this proposition. 

The orange and white hued dining area is light and airy with a goldfish bowl on every table. Elizabeth Epié deserves the accolades she is accorded for designing a restaurant with a bright feel, which caters to celebrities, politicians and commoners.

At Citrus Etoile, Gilles remains faithful to his philosophy of flavoursome and light cooking but one that is strong on tradition. So whether it's asparagus with salmon caviar, braised scallops with Parmesan cheese and olive oil, or John Dory served with its skin on a bed of laurel leaves, the kitchen has the talent to turn out simple things with great flair. The subtle use of butter and cream helps you leave on a light note

Start with a creamy burrata cheese and tartare of tomato basil, zucchini soup with croquettes or the ravioli of foie gras topped with truffle foam, which has a mysterious egg yolk within. This could be followed by grilled snapper cooked in an oriental style with Brittany crispy sausage and mashed potatoes, and Provençal beef stew cooked with black olives and grilled polenta.

Their speciality dishes of foie gras stuffed beignets topped with a syrupy sweet port wine reduction or the classic rabbit, served with mustard sauce and figs, are delicate yet addictive. Desserts include raspberries with mascarpone, a cheese plate accompanied by a green salad or the Californian classic of coconut ice cream donut, a reminder of Gilles's stint in Los Angeles.

Those who find it hard to choose can just pop a question to Madame Epié and she will be happy to recommend a dish, maybe something that is light and hearty yet retains its myriad flavours. A glass of Cognac or Santenay Rouge could bring the blissful Citrus Etoile experience to an end.