Since 1983 the Lloyds and the Coopers have run this excellent establishment between them, an example of harmony which is reflected in the ambience of this handsome town house. The interior of the house is a delight, the dining room a temple dedicated to properly presented delicious food.

Organic vegetables feature strongly. Start with an avocado filled with Stilton and cream cheese, port and sweet mango, served hot. A prime Welsh Fillet steak is served either with garlic butter or a whisky, onion and parsley sauce, though I thought it a trifle stingy to charge £2.50 extra for cooking it to your preference.

Assuming you could avoid the temptation of the selection of Welsh cheeses, including a guest Irish number, a good note upon which to finish could be the raspberry and almond tart served with a splash of amaretto and fresh cream. A simple wine list starts at £9.75 and includes a Welsh Monnow Valley white.