Coastguard, The

In a location renowned across Kent for its beauty, The Coastguard lives up to its reputation for excellent food and drink served with a pleasing informality. All this is complimented by breathtaking views out to sea, and only a stone's throw from the water's edge, surrounded by the renowned impressive white cliffs.

Within, the décor is all seamanlike and ship-shape with plenty of wood surfaces, decent wooden furniture and the odd touch of brass. Described as being "between the bottom of the hill and the deep blue sea", with the cries of the seabirds, the bracing whiff of the briny and those compelling marine vistas, there can be few places on the coast of Britain that are more inspiring, and certainly no pub that is so near to France.

The area is riddled with history, much of it of military origin, including the massive naval guns used to bombard occupied France, which seem to have done more damage to local property than to the enemy.

The Coastguard's regularly changing menu includes locally caught seafood to individual savoury tarts. Their chef takes the finest local produce and prepares each dish to order, judging them by the reaction from their visitors and locals alike, it's well worth the visit.

A typical menu might include smoked salmon and whisky mousse, deep fried whitebait with lemon mayonnaise, potted prawns with ginger and lime, or on a day when the coast of France is submerged in invisibility a bowl of good robust Coastguard soup.

Main courses could yield baked devilled crab, fresh local cod in Hoegaarden batter, or local beef sirloin with haggis and smoked oysters and a haystack of chips.

A rum and raisin rice pudding is served with a caramelised top, or there's likely to be upside down apple cake with ginger ice cream, but for a real treat keep an eye open for the lavender scented chocolate pot with walnut and white chocolate shortbread.

For cheese buffs, the Coastguard is seventh heaven. Sam and Nigel Wydemus are passionate about their cheeses nor are they slow to recognise the potential just across the water, with visits to Phillippe Olivier in Boulogne and the organisation of British v French cheese tastings.

With the present renaissance in British cheese they are right on the mark and it is a cheering thought for those who think there's nothing left to taste that the recent cheese event at Blenheim Palace fielded some 800 British varieties.

With the proximity of the continent just across the water it is perhaps hardly surprising that the excellent array of local beers are well supplemented by worthy contributions from further afield, and found myself particularly intrigued by the Trappistes Rochefort which turns out to be a Belgian number with an abv of 7.5%.

A wine list garnered from very creditable sources rubs shoulders with a collection of distinguished single malts starting in the Orkneys with celebrated Highland Park.

For further information, including their menu and an ever growing list of Awards, do take a look at their Website.