Colette's Restaurant, The

The Grove in Chandler's Cross, Hertfordshire opened last September and is a hotel that flouts normal country house hotel conventions. Though the outside of the 227 bedroom, Grade II-listed property may look typically impressive, inside it breaks the mould, as the decoration is decidedly unusual, filled with numerous works of modern art with only a few antiques.

Similarly Colette's, the French sounding dining room where Chef Chris Harrod actually serves Modern British cuisine - though admitting to French influences as he previously worked at Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons for four years and at L'Ortolan - whilst it is boasts gloriously rested plasterwork the rest of the decor continues the 'up to date' theme.

Apart from Sunday lunch it is only open for dinner, the seasonal menu is a model of simplicity with a choice of around seven dishes in each of the three courses on offer. Choices could include: terrine of leeks with langoustine and truffle or white crab meat with sevruga caviar, coriander cured tuna and lemon confit dressing; followed by steamed sea bass with scallops and oyster tortellini in a lemongrass and oyster sauce, coriander sabayon or roasted Gressingham duck with date and tamarind sauce; finishing with a bitter chocolate tart served with a lemon thyme foam, iced chocolate powder and praline ice cream or passion fruit soufflé, coconut sorbet.