Collyweston Slater, The

In the days when the famous Collyweston slate 'log' was quarried from a depth of around 38 feet, the men employed to do the job would have been grateful for a drop of something refreshing when they emerged from the grim workings. It has to be said however that they would have some difficulty in equating those conditions with the smooth and newly refurbished (2006) inn that has emerged from the premises they knew.

More a restaurant with rooms than a pub The Slater is now terribly smart, though the features of the old pub have not entirely gone. I ate my meal on a sunny terrace that looked westwards to the Fineshade woods where the red kites circle, and north across the Welland valley.

Management aim to offer quality with value, and an emphasis on fresh, local and seasonal produce. Given those aims I did find myself wondering where the Rutland Water trout, the Rutland snails and the Belvoir cordials had got to, but it's early days.

Starters included few surprises amongst the seven very acceptable dishes, some of which could be taken as main courses, with a warm tartlet of roasted red peppers and goat's cheese especially catching my eye.

A fresh fish of the day is always on offer amongst the mains, but following an afternoon spent in heat-wave conditions in a Rutland quarry I was distracted by the thought of fresh haddock with beer batter, homemade mushy peas and chips which, though a standard menu choice, eaten in the warm evening sun with a pint of Slater's Ale by Everards of Leicester, proved to be absolutely the right choice.

I could have ordered duck breast, English sirloin steak, Thai fishcakes or rump of lamb, all of which looked from discreet observation to be capable of giving at least equal satisfaction.

A cup of excellent coffee rounded the meal off well, and then it was back on the road. Next time I shall take heed of the 'beds' bit and avail myself of the well heeled wine list, with some English entries, not to mention the range of desserts, even if it did not include Colston Bassett so far as I could see. Perhaps I chose the wrong day.