Galician cuisine, they say, is simple by nature thanks to the region's economy, which is largely dependent on fishing and farming. Whether it is the shellfish, empanadas, a kind of stuffed pastry, polbo á feira, a dish made of octopus, the cheese, queixo de tetilla, the Ribera de Duero and Albariño wines and orujo liquor or any of the other seafood and meat delicacies, you will be delighted by the earthy cuisine.

Taking this fare to an haute cuisine platform is Combarro, a resplendent place on Reina Mercedes in Madrid, where a stone frontage carved in traditional style, a modern bar, a dining area spread over two floors with several private dining rooms, antiques and paintings for decoration and ambient music create a chic atmosphere in which to enjoy food prepared with great care.

It took close to twenty-five years for the founder Manuel Domingues Limerez to establish his dream. He opened the first restaurant in 1973 and later on the second one in 1999. His son Diego Dominguez Vidal joined him recently and helped the venture further consolidate its popularity. Their commitment to taking customers on an exciting gastronomic journey while staying true to their roots of humble cooking utilizing excellent, fresh products has seen them win numerous awards.

The seafood is sourced from the north coast of Galicia and is displayed in a large salt water fish pond. Spider crabs and lobsters are among the creatures you can spot and select for a sumptuous meal.

Specialities from the rivers include oysters, shrimps, clams, crabs and barnacles. Seafood displays all the variety available along the long shoreline of the province with baked turbot, a European flatfish, on a bed of potatoes, octopus to 'feira', a trademark dish of that area, lamprey - a primitive elongated fish with jawless sucking mouth, prepared in the Ardo - an ancient Hispanic - style, adorning the menu.

Pork with grelos, a vegetable akin to broccoli, suckling lamb chops and partridge pie are on offer to those who prefer meat. Desserts are rich affairs with Santiago tart, containing an almond and quince filling, yoghurt mousse in honey and filloas - large pancakes - with cream and eggs.

The wine list has interesting bottles from France and Spain and the bar provides a grazing menu.