Any inn that carries the Alastair Sawday seal of approval is invariably worth having a look at, even if only because close attention is always paid to the food. As Samuel Pepys might have said, "there's a man who likes his victuals, sir". The Compasses is certainly no exception, and if further evidence is needed just take a quick squint at their comments in the guest book.

Eating is done at tables set within the bar area, or in a small dining room. A constantly changing menu takes advantage of the seasons and the markets, but chefs Ian Chalmers and Ian Evans (must be a bit confusing?) see that the blackboards are kept bang up to date. Portions are famously generous - just ask the locals - and could include baked banana wrapped in bacon with a Gruyère cheese sauce, a smoked duck and red onion tartlet or mushroom and rosemary soup finished with cream.

Main courses have been known to yield a simply mouthwatering steak and kidney pie with suet pastry, chicken breast with a Thai cream sauce, or rare pieces of beef fillet with Madeira and mushrooms; from the repertoire of the sea a tuna steak with a mango salsa or more locally a plate of Wiltshire ham, egg and chips. Puddings are a real strength here; look for wild strawberry Alexander, or a heartwarming brioche bread and butter pudding with banana and rum.

This is a place for all seasons, located in some of the best countryside that England has to offer, and the accommodation, like everything else, is cosy in the best possible sense.