Winner of a Bib Gourmand in 2006, Comptoir Gascon is out of the same stable as Club Gascon, but a good deal more earthy and bistro-like. So forget the décor, which is practical rather than prize-winning, and therefore very authentic, and concentrate on the menu where true inspiration lurks.

Sharing dishes of fresh oysters and grilled chipolatas set the culinary antennae on alert, with piggy treats not far behind. This being La Francais the duck is never far away, and in fact the restaurant is internationally renowned for the perfection of its chips, cooked of course in duck fat, which link well with shall we say a gaggle of Toulouse sausages, or a steak even.

Bistro fare turns up roast sturgeon with crackling pork belly and celery, a fennel tart, and a superb cassoulet Toulousain. A treat in the form of juicy greens and lemon makes even me want to "eat my veggies", as I was constantly counselled to do from an early age, let alone the carrot, fennel and artichoke barigoule. Why on earth do we have to insist on making vegetables unpalatable this side of the Channel?

But for something mouthwateringly different head for the Gascony pie, or duck confit a la diable - just two out of a hundred things to do with duck and not a disappointment amongst them.

The wine list is tiny but oh so cunningly thought through, and there are some 50 wines available for the journey to your pad and private enjoyment.

And if it is fresh bakeries, or other French delights that are on your mind just pop in to their Food Hall and be confronted by a veritable battery of temptations.