Cornish Range, The

Last time I was in Cornwall any thoughts of a declining economy were quickly dismissed, with the Eden Project bringing a spread of business in its wake that has pinpointed Cornwall afresh as a destination.

Needless to say the catering trade in general has benefited, and one of the signs of the times is located in a former pilchard processing plant in Mousehole. The Cornish Range strikes the right note between locals and visitors, and prices are not of the rip-off range which tourist/weather-dependent restaurants sometimes find it necessary to charge.

The interior is gracious, but earthy with sturdy tables and chairs, soft lighting, flowers and works by noted Cornish artists.

Starters can feature steamed mussels, potted Newlyn crab, a goat's cheese and baby artichoke frittata, or fresh sardines. People visiting the coast have a marked inclination to want to enjoy the fruits of the sea, and if there is a marked inclination to this with the starters you can be sure it will continue with the main courses.

With less well known fish filling the gaps left by declining stocks it is no surprise to find roasted wing of ray and pan-fried fillets of gurnard on the menu, the latter with celeriac puree, warm rhubarb, ginger and caper chutney and lemon oil. A char-grilled 8oz ribeye steak arrives at table with roasted mushrooms and green peppercorn jus.

Amongst the appealing desserts the apple, blackberry and cinnamon crumble with Cornish clotted cream is a real best seller, as is the baked white chocolate cheesecake. A well thought-out wine list makes for good holiday drinking, with very little beyond the £30 mark, and enough by the glass to allow for reasonable choices.