Cote Restaurant

Here's something new. Andy Bassadone and chef Chris Benians, creators of Strada, have decided to go French, which I suppose makes a change from going Dutch, but perhaps that will come later. Their avowed aim is a chain of medium priced bistro style restaurants that mirror the trend in Paris as the drift away from sophisticated food to less complicated cooking becomes even more noticeable.

Their sensible booking system ensures that the restaurant is never fully booked, leaving space for the casual passers-by overcome by pangs of hunger. Should they be full they take your mobile number to call you when a table is free.

Inside there is none of the rather dated bistro style trappings, which have been replaced by a chic, clean-cut approach to both décor and furnishings. Olives, bread and pissaladiere set the tone for what is to come, with starters of rillettes, a warm Roquefort salad or calamari to name but two from a good range.

More choices then between light mains such as eggs Benedict or salmon Hollandaise, steak haché, or a meat and fish menu that includes grilled lamb, hachis Parmentier, and traditional moules frites. No French restaurant is complete without its grills and steaks, with steaks from Scotland that have been aged on the bone.

Desserts are voluptuous and rich, witness a convincing coupe noire or classic crème brûlée. A modest but impressive French wine list misses few tricks. Given the success of Strada it seems as though we are set for a genuine Gallic eating renaissance.