Cottier Restaurant, The

This restaurant is an integral part of the Cottier complex located in the former Downhill Parish Church, Glasgow. An imaginative project that has attracted major arts and heritage funding it has made a major impression on the city, not least its elegant restaurant.

This has a South American flavour, with starters of smoked salmon and apple quesadilla with horseradish cream, or baked corn chips with cheddar cheese, blackbean salsa, guacamole and sour cream. Attractive small, or side, dishes make very good starters. Fajita come with a choice of imaginative flavours, and embraces chicken, beef, seafood, vegetable, prawn and chicken, and mixed.

The Chef's Special is a homemade beefburger topped with mature cheddar, sundried tomato, chilli chutney and guacamole, served with salad and handcut chips, and don't make the mistake of thinking you can get away with one before you move on to the mains, unless you have a very special capacity.

Mains include Colombian grilled chicken with seafood cakes, with avocado and lime sauce, and crispy fried whole snapper served with a ginger and plum chutney, ribbon vegetables and coconut rice.

Desserts seem to defeat the South American concept, and Dunsyre blue cheese with pear in red wine and oatcakes is a complete - and very welcome - capitulation.

This is a very smooth and pleasant operation, provided you like South American food of course, and once the theatre part of the complex is in full swing should come into its own.