Coyote - Chiswick, The

A touch of gastronomic Southwest America is not necessarily the sort of cuisine which you might expect to find in West London, but for ten years The Coyote has been offering the best you can expect to find from that distinctive part of the Land of the Free. The atmosphere is relaxed and picks up well on the reality of the country of its origin. Located where it is the restaurant is well placed to provide a haven for business people, and at weekends a setting in which to chill out with the family. Either way, as they say in their website The Coyote is there to spice up your day.

Which leads us logically to Brunch, that wonderful institution the world over, starting with the Complete Breakfast, a sturdy affair of fried eggs, sausage, bacon, tomato, mushrooms, toast and skinny fries. My heart always warms to people who are only prepared to regard the subject of eggs in the plural. Creole Eggs Benedict is a dream, followed closely by Eggs Florentine and blackened steak and eggs, an 8 oz steak with sauce, two poached eggs, Hollandaise and more of the skinny fries.

American pancakes, Huevos Rancheros and chicken hash are much-loved favourites but for my book the star item on the brunch menu is Coyote Café's Howlin' Burgers, and you can choose from original, cheese, cheese and bacon or chilli sauce. But if it's a sandwich you're after try the Steak Ciabatta, fillet tales marinated in Coyote spices cooked with oyster mushrooms and julienne peppers tossed in a vibrant chilli sauce and served with guacamole in ciabatta.

For the rest of the day choose from the classic Louisiana gumbo, spicy sausage, chicken and okra cooked in a rich thick sauce and served with rice, or the delicious Yucatan rack of lamb, marinated in toasted cumin seeds, roasted oregano, thyme, garlic and mixed chilli with cinnamon rice and stir fry vegetables. Louisiana red snapper fillet is sautéed and served with sweet and sour bay leaf sauce, greens and house potatoes. The choice of dishes is an inspiration.

There are children's menus, a wine list that marches well with the spicy numbers from the kitchen, and a list of cocktails and spirits, and the good news is that all spirits are priced and poured as double measures. This is a gutsy, lively place with style and a track record of which to be proud.