Crab & Winkle

There are few things more exciting to the true lover of proper food than to sit in some agreeable maritime setting looking out over the waters that may have hosted what is on their plate, glass to hand, and preferably with company in whose evident enjoyment you can also take pleasure. The Crab and Winkle is admirably equipped to do all these things - except the company, that's down to you.

Whilst looking out over Whitstable Harbour, from late morning to late evening, contemplate a menu that though devoted largely to creatures of the sea, also gives genuine nods in the direction of dedicated carnivores and vegetarians. Menus change through the seasons and with whatever produce that's available from the foragers and the local game shoots.

An à la carte menu provides the basis of the business. From a list of around six starters expect to find fish and shellfish antipasto, with anchovies, cured salmon, oyster, roll mop served with olives, capers, artichokes and Balsamic dressing, a trio of smoked, cured and pickled fish or half a dozen rock oysters.

Mains include whole mackerel baked with orange, a whole steamed lemon sole, or roast breast of free range Mckeever chicken. Conventional cod is replaced with beer battered huss for fish and chips, and the pan fried fillet of organic salmon is served with a fricassee of leeks and bacon, foraged mushroom mash and walnut coulis. Desserts weigh in with double chocolate, raisin and walnut brownie, and a Kentish cherry and almond tart.

The aptly named light lunch menu also offers a special for children, fish and chips followed by ice cream at £7.50. Adults choose between three starters and four super mains including a veggie option, and three puddings that include a mouth-watering mango tarte tatin: two courses for £11, three for £15.

The select menu is available every evening and Sunday lunchtimes, with a 2 or 3 course option. A typical selection would start with lobster and red pepper risotto, go on to pan fried fillet of wild sea bass, and finish with baked peppered goat's cheese served with a raspberry dressed salad and cider caramel - eat your heart out, Heston.

The wine list traverses the globe with great dexterity and I defy any reasonable person not to find something there that will bring a contented smile to add to their enjoyment of real quality cooking and ingredients. Some very decent wines are available by the glass, and the Tenterden winery's Chapel Down white Pinot Noir Reserve 2000 flies the flag.

Good also to see South African wines making a determined comeback, with three worthy bins on this list to prove it.