Probably one of the most novel of the seafood eateries that believe in keeping close to their sources of supply, the Crab House looks out over Chesil Beach. The place is full of delightful eccentricities that on their own make a visit to this seaside shack worth while. Dig the pink umbrellas, and for those who come unprepared to do battle with obstinate recent former denizens of the deep there are hammers, pliers and aprons provided. An admirable extension of this customer care programme also offers straw hats to those who really want to look like Ernest Hemingway or protect the bare patches - or both.

Happily, given the abundance of maritime delights bobbing about within easy reach, the Crab House offers a variety of dishes that involve, say, halibut, skate, sardines, eels and lobster on an "as caught" basis. The menu is written up to twice a day depending on what fish/shellfish is coming in all from English boats in the English Channel, and it is all displayed and cooked in front of you. Whilst another speciality are the Portland royal oysters from their own oyster farm.

And lest you should be tempted to think that the Justices might have some reservations about granting a licence to such delightfully downmarket premises, think again. House wine from £12.55, with fish-friendly options beyond that. If seafood is your bag do not go within 100 miles of Weymouth without visiting this little haven.