Creeler's of Skye

Lucky are those who live in the remote places where flourish the produce that people in cities cry out for, pay through the nose for, and travel great distances to enjoy. For there is nothing to beat the freshness of fish and shellfish hauled from the deep dark waters of the West Coast of Scotland. Nor are these sentiments confined to seafood only - venison, game, garden vegetables, eggs laid by hens who roam freely, all combine to make somewhere like the Isle of Skye seem even more idyllic than it obviously is.

So to eat there, looking out over the waters of Broadford Bay, is something of a subliminal experience. For starters expect to find smoked venison, local hand-dived Princess scallops, or the famous Creelers seafood gumbo, said by the Louisiana Authority no less to be some of the best in the world and also served in mains-sized portions. Other mains include Cajun steak (the Chef has inclinations in that direction), or a pan-sautéed steak of Skye salmon. You may have the finest fish and chip shop in the world within easy reach of home, but nothing, absolutely nothing, tastes as good as the local haddock at Creelers, pan fried simply in bread-crumbs. The pot-roasted haunch of wild venison has a flavour all its own, with the firm meat poised at the point of disintegration.

Stapag is not a name familiar to many but it disguises a famous Highland delicacy that invokes crowdie, whisky, honey and oatmeal, perhaps Scotland's answer to sticky toffee pudding; then there's Creelers chocolate mousse made with cocoa-butter chocolate, or if you would prefer Chef's hot orange sauce, made with at least some raw egg. But who cares when the eggs come from such pristine surroundings?

Creelers compare the putting together of their wine list with an election manifesto - must appeal to everybody, have relevance to a wide variety of issues - sorry, dishes - and yet still be affordable. Given their own wine list I would back them for No 10 any time they cared to stand. But I am sure they are much too attached to the West Coast for that.