Creggans Inn, The

One of the more refreshing aspects of travelling in Scotland is that burst of optimism that overtakes the motorist as, after miles of conifers and vast expanses of water there suddenly appears what is clearly a hostelry of place and substance offering a promise of refreshment and relaxation, which after all are probably two of the reasons for being there anyway.

Of such is The Creggans, a well-loved inn on the road from Glasgow to Inverary, at Strachur, overlooking Loch Fyne, and it came as welcome relief indeed. Had we arrived by boat we could have used one of the hotel moorings in the Loch. As it was the Focus fitted well into an otherwise largely empty car park at lunchtime.

Alongside Loch Fyne it would have been churlish not to sample the local oysters, fresh as the day, though the filo horn of hand-dived scallops with mussel and saffron cream sauce came a very close second. The fillet of Aberdeenshire beef was quite one of the best ever, served with mash infused with oxtail and morel mushroom jus. Much as I like rack of lamb I tend to leave the basic product to the Welsh or the Cumbrians, and a good second choice would have been the breast of Bressingham duck with olive mash and a Madeira jus.

The warm prune and Armagnac tart, a melt in the mouth confection served with home made cinnamon ice-cream was an immediate choice of dessert. One alternative could have been the dark chocolate marquise with rhubarb and honey ice cream, but a long love affair with Scottish cheeses resulted in a renewal of faith as an extra course. There is little doubt that Lanark Blue can compete on almost any terms with our English blues.

A well constructed wine list yielded a bottle of Chateau Musar '97, a real joy to find amongst Scotland's lochs and mountains. The half bottle of Montbazillac complimented equally both dessert and cheese.