Cricketers, The

There are those who believe that this rather attractive old pub depends too much upon its status as the place where the parents of a certain Jamie Oliver taught their son to cook, and who now run the place. This may or may not be true, but their many regulars would certainly dispute it; the English have an aversion to success, particularly of the rapid variety, however, looked at by somebody of independent mind there is an inclination to take the view that here is a delightful 16th century Essex pub doing a good job serving well-kept beer and sound food.

For £26 you can have a pleasant meal in the restaurant, or £21.50 for two courses. Start with a warm salad of asparagus with baby plum tomatoes, wild rocket and quails' eggs and a nut oil dressing or pigeon breasts sautéed pink with apple, celeriac and hazelnut dressing, followed by roasted fillet of cod on a white bean and herb purée or medallions of pork topped with strips of ham and tongue on a wholegrain mustard sauce, and finish with their choice of homemade desserts.