Cross at Kingussie, The

Enjoying a new lease of life since 1983 as a small hotel, having been built as a tweed mill in this delightful Highland village, The Cross also opens its restaurant doors to a wider clientele who respond with an appreciation that has led to a whole galaxy of awards. The emphasis is on wholesome Scottish food served in a dining room suitably redolent of antiquity combined with strikingly modern works of art and tasteful fittings.

A starter might be soup made from knowledgeably gathered wild mushrooms blended with some of the cultivated variety, tinged with thyme and served fresh and steaming. The scallops from the west coast are equally fresh and come flash sauteed with asparagus and a red pepper jus.

The flesh of the local red deer has a flavour all its own and lightly fried with juniper and port it is memorable. Like most other meats the secret is in the hanging. The Highlands is renowned for its robust approach to life, which is often code for plenty of exercise, so you may feel able to justify the chocoholic's delight, a gloriously rich and dark chocolate mousse cake, nicely offset with a white chocolate sauce.

Dinner is a five course presentation with choices on mains and dessert and at £37.50 is fairly priced. As so often the set price lunch at £16.50 represents excellent value.

The wine list is highly regarded, and those not nursing a grudge against the French will be overjoyed to observe that French wines are back on the list. House wine is £12 a bottle or from £3.65 a glass.